Author: Isa Lykke Hansen

  • I don’t know why you say goodbye I say hallo

    SURPRISE! We’re home. After having literally circled the globe we are now back where we started – and yet so far from it.

    Coming home is always sad and neither of us were ready for it. But it was time – until next time – and – even though I am not one for doing things because they make sense – it made sense. The timing was right – I am starting university in a couple of weeks and our brains are craving digestion time and new knowledge.

    As cliché as it may be I see this as an investment in my future travels. A university degree opens many doors abroad (if you want to teach and is not a native English speaker it is a requirement) and am planing to minor in Japanese so I can go back to that country which I fell so hopelessly in love with.

    If there is anything I have learnt from this trip it is that adventure can happen anywhere – it is all a matter of attitude. So I will do my best to try and see this not as the ending but merely a new chapter in a journey that has only just begun.

  • Iceland in pictures

    I’ll be honest. The task of coming back to a blog after 1 month of silence and having literally hundreds of stories and several thousand photos to chose from is overwhelming. So I will start slow and maybe there will be more and maybe there will be less. But here are pictures from Iceland, a country that is like a distilled version of everything Scandinavian – filled with beautiful, light-haired and blue-eyed people, white, minimalistic design, higher prices (and higher quality), wild, drunken night life, friendly (if private) people, cold weather and no public restrooms – and of course some of the most magnificent nature this region of the world has to offer.

    Enjoying local cuisine; Skyr and hotdogs
    Enjoying local cuisine; Skyr and hotdogs

    Reykjavík from above
    Reykjavík from above
    On top of the world and in between continental plates at Þingvellir National park
    On top of the world and in between continental plates at Þingvellir National park
    Driving around the Golden circle with Jodi and Bernie from Maine. Gullfoss in the background
    Driving around the Golden circle with Jodi and Bernie from Maine. Gullfoss in the background
    This might be the most beautiful place I have ever seen. Nature reserve on Snæfellsjökull peninsula, West Iceland. We had dinner right there on the beach with a view to volcanic formations, snow covered mountains, waterfalls and an abundance of sheep (Dinner was lamb chops...)
    This might be the most beautiful place I have ever seen. Nature reserve on Snæfellsjökull peninsula, West Iceland. We had dinner right there on the beach with a view to volcanic formations, snow covered mountains, waterfalls and an abundance of sheep (Dinner was lamb chops…)
    Enjoying the view on the walk from Arnarstapi to Hellnar, Snæfellsjökull peninsula, West Iceland
    Enjoying the view on the walk from Arnarstapi to Hellnar, Snæfellsjökull peninsula, West Iceland
    The hiiiiils are alive ... (Snæfellsjökull in the background)
    The hiiiiils are alive … (Snæfellsjökull in the background)
    Please note: I was the appropriately dressed one. In the beginning I was pretty pissed that Iceland has branded themselves as the original Vikings (Danes are!) but after this day I was like:
    Please note: I was the appropriately dressed one. In the beginning I was pretty pissed that Iceland has branded themselves as the original Vikings (Danes are!) but after this day I was like: “okay, you can have it”…
    Snapping photos from the car
    Snapping photos from the car
    Hitch hiking for the first time. It was a great success and we got picked up by four generous Icelanders.
    Hitch hiking for the first time. It was a great success and we got picked up by four generous Icelanders.
    Dinner with a view on Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) in South Iceland
    Dinner with a view on Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) in South Iceland
    I am not exaggerating when I say that this lobster is one of the most delicious things I have eaten in my life. I couldn't help but laugh when I was texting with one of my best friends and she was like:
    I am not exaggerating when I say that this lobster is one of the most delicious things I have eaten in my life. I couldn’t help but laugh when I was texting with one of my best friends and she was like: “So … you sleep in a tent and eat in really fancy restaurants?” Totally spot on! At least we have our priorities straight 😉
    NBD. Just hanging out in a natural hot top in the mountains near Eyjafjallajokull
    NBD. Just hanging out in a natural hot top in the mountains near Eyjafjallajokull
    Babyhorses and arctic lupin in abundance
    Babyhorses and arctic lupin in abundance

    Skógar: Nice waterfall, crappy camp ground.
    Skógar: Nice waterfall, crappy camp ground.
    Making new friends in cold and rainy Vík. One Canadian, two Americans, two Danes and a Brit/Singaporean
    Making new friends in cold and rainy Vík. One Canadian, two Americans, two Danes and a Brit/Singaporean
    I didn't realize 'till afterwards why this dog was acting so strangely: there are no trees in Iceland, so this pup was fetching stones instead!
    I didn’t realize ’till afterwards why this dog was acting so strangely: there are no trees in Iceland, so this pup was fetching stones instead!
    We rode on horseback to this waterfall and then climbed behind it. Who said awesome?
    We rode on horseback to this waterfall and then climbed behind it. Who said awesome?

    … Throw in some glaciers and a Snoop Dog concert for good measure and you have a pretty successful Iceland trip!

    All roads lead to Rome, so that’s where we’re headed next. It is literally 4 times as hot down there as it is here, but I spent all day yesterday mapping the best gelato places in town, so I think we’ll survive 😉

    /Isa

  • 90 Days Of Action

    “Something has to change” I was sitting in the passenger seat of our small, Japanese rental car, halfway through a bag of 7-eleven chips, miscellaneous rapping paper scattered around my feet. We had been travelling for a month and all intentions of living healthy had pretty much gone out the window. Which was fine – we had looked forward to this trip for a long time and we were having fun, but now it was time to start doing something healthy again. I didn’t feel good without my weekly gym sessions and despite the fact that 7-eleven in Japan is WAY ahead of everywhere else (obviously) when it comes to healthy food options the amount of junk food had reached a level were I just didn’t feel comfortable with it any more. Something had to change.

    I started researching for workouts online and stumbled upon darebee‘s 90 Days Of Action – a no-equpment-90-days-fitness-programme designed to make you do a workout every day, building up your entire body.

    Being used to “only” hitting the gym 2-3 times a week we were both a little hesitant at first, but decided to give it a go. Day one we did a few lunges and some squats in a our little hotel room in Naha, Okinawa. Since then we have burpee’ed in public parks, crunched in filthy camp ground toilets, done very crammed push-ups in very tiny Japanese dorm rooms, made fools of ourselves in various parking lots and even done workouts on two different mountains in two different countries!

    Being awesome on Mt. Misen in Japan
    Being awesome on Mt. Misen in Japan

    One week ago we finished with 150 push-ups. I can’t believe it but I have worked out every.single.day for 3 months! I didn’t even know I was capable of doing that! It definitely wasn’t always fun, but it quickly became a habit and I found that when you take out the “should-or-shouldn’t” element out of a workout it’s way easier to just go ahead and do it (how great is Shia btw?)

    The best part? The website and all the content in there is all completely free! If you find the website useful though, consider making a donation. Everyone working on the project is volunteering their time and expertise, but it still isn’t free running a website. We donated the equivalent of one moths gym membership and considering we both worked out every day for 90 days I’ll say we got almost a years worth of training programmes already!

    3…2…1… ACTION!

  • Pictures from our Epic Roadtrip of The South

    On request from Parents here’s a “little” picture-update on what we’ve been up to since we landed in The States. The reason we’ve been off the grid lately is that … well we have literally been off the grid. We bought a tent and have been living in The Great Outdoors (not really we stay at camp grounds, but it still counts!) for a couple of weeks now which has been both challenging and rewarding but more on that later (maybe). Now: PICTURES!

    In Washington, DC we played tourists and saw Arlington Cemetery, Washington Memorial, Lincoln Memorial and The White House as well as some cherry blossom that - as much as it hurts me to admit it - was actually better than what we saw in Japan.
    In Washington, DC we played tourists and saw Arlington Cemetery, Washington Memorial, Lincoln Memorial and The White House as well as some cherry blossom that – as much as it hurts me to admit it – was actually better than what we saw in Japan.

    I'm really sorry to say this #Japan but so far #Washington is kicking your ass at #CherryBlossom 🌸

    Et billede slået op af Isa Lykke Hansen (@isalykke) den

    In Waxhaw, NC we stayed with my other family. The stay really deserves a post of it's own but for now I'll just say that these people are amazing and I miss them so much. Once again they made me feel right at home and they adopted Jonas as easily into their family as they did me 3-4 years ago. It felt like no time had gone by and I am so grateful to have these lovely people in my life.
    In Waxhaw, NC we stayed with my other family. The stay really deserves a post of it’s own but for now I’ll just say that these people are amazing and I miss them so much. Once again they made me feel right at home and they adopted Jonas as easily into their family as they did me 3-4 years ago. It felt like no time had gone by and I am so grateful to have these lovely people in my life.
    In Charlotte we stayed at an apartment in hip'n'happening South End. While Jonas spent his days at The Powershell Summit I explored the pretty city and hung out with the cutest dog on AirBnB. Jack is an Old English Shepherd and seriously so.freaking.cute. You can even follow him on Instagram @jackjackclt
    In Charlotte we stayed at an apartment in hip’n’happening South End. While Jonas spent his days at The Powershell Summit I explored the pretty city and hung out with the cutest dog on AirBnB. Jack is an Old English Shepherd and seriously so.freaking.cute. You can even follow him on Instagram @jackjackclt

    Back in Waxhaw we picked up a care-package from my parents which among other things held our sleeping bags, Danish salty liquorice and home-knitted woollen socks (thanks mom<3)
    Back in Waxhaw we picked up a care-package from my parents which among other things held our sleeping bags, Danish salty liquorice and home-knitted woollen socks (thanks mom<3)[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="2500.0"]We picked up our car in Charlotte and then we were off! First stop was (of course) real southern BBQ - ribs, pulled pork, hash on rice, coleslaw and banana pie. yummi! We picked up our car in Charlotte and then we were off! First stop was (of course) real southern BBQ – ribs, pulled pork, hash on rice, coleslaw and banana pie. yummi!

    The first camp ground we stayed at was just outside of charming Charlston, SC. Our new home is the green beauty in the background. She held up remarkably well when the first night presented us with a thunder and lightning storm of another world. Good thing we seam sealed it that same morning ;-) Also: I.MAKE.FIRE!
    The first camp ground we stayed at was just outside of charming Charlston, SC. Our new home is the green beauty in the background. She held up remarkably well when the first night presented us with a thunder and lightning storm of another world. Good thing we seam sealed it that same morning 😉 Also: I.MAKE.FIRE!
    We got matching t-shirts at the Power Shell Summit and yes we are well aware how lame this is. Not that that'll stop us from wearing them of course. In Danish it's actually called a
    We got matching t-shirts at the Power Shell Summit and yes we are well aware how lame this is. Not that that’ll stop us from wearing them of course. In Danish it’s actually called a “camping suit”, so I guess it’s only fitting.
    On our way out of Charleston we stopped by Angel Oak for a breakfast with a view. It is 400+ years old and supposedly the oldest tree east of the Mississippi. We are confused about this fact though as we have seen some cypress trees in GA that are 900+ years ... If you can clarify please let us know in the comments!
    On our way out of Charleston we stopped by Angel Oak for a breakfast with a view. It is 400+ years old and supposedly the oldest tree east of the Mississippi. We are confused about this fact though as we have seen some cypress trees in GA that are 900+ years … If you can clarify please let us know in the comments!
    Blazing through South Carolina we arrived at Georgia's biggest tourist attraction - at least that was what we had been told by multiple, several meter-high billboards along the interstate for the prior 50km. We laughed pretty hard when we finally pulled off and saw this place on the road side. Good thing you have a big airport, GA, or you might have a hard time getting visitors to swing by...
    Blazing through South Carolina we arrived at Georgia’s biggest tourist attraction – at least that was what we had been told by multiple, several meter-high billboards along the interstate for the prior 50km. We laughed pretty hard when we finally pulled off and saw this place on the road side. Good thing you have a big airport, GA, or you might have a hard time getting visitors to swing by…
    The state also had plenty of alliGAtors though (get it?) At the Okefenokee Swamp we met Rita and Mark who took us gator-spotting at night with our flashlights and invited us to stay with them in Atlanta. It really is true what they say about southern friendliness! Pictured: Sophie who has set up camp near the ranger station with her 8 little gator-babies.
    The state also had plenty of alliGAtors though (get it?) At the Okefenokee Swamp we met Rita and Mark who took us gator-spotting at night with our flashlights and invited us to stay with them in Atlanta. It really is true what they say about southern friendliness! Pictured: Sophie who has set up camp near the ranger station with her 8 little gator-babies.
    The mosquitoes soon got too much for my feet though, so we moved on to Orlando, FL where we've been hanging out with Harry Potter, Spiderman, HULK, Dr. Seuss and many more in Universal Studio's Islands of Adventure.
    The mosquitoes soon got too much for my feet though, so we moved on to Orlando, FL where we’ve been hanging out with Harry Potter, Spiderman, HULK, Dr. Seuss and many more in Universal Studio’s Islands of Adventure.
    We got the best seats for an outdoor screening of Monty Python's Quest for The Holy Grail (it's me waving from the front) ....
    We got the best seats for an outdoor screening of Monty Python’s Quest for The Holy Grail (it’s me waving from the front) ….
    ... and witnessed the 3rd annual running of the chihuahuas...
    … and witnessed the 3rd annual running of the chihuahuas…
    ... where the owners gave the dogs a run for their money (no pun intended - okay maybe a little) in terms of entertainment value.
    … where the owners gave the dogs a run for their money (no pun intended – okay maybe a little) in terms of entertainment value.

    And in between we eat good, local food 😉

    In other words: it’s all good!

  • Reverse Culture Shock and How Not To Fly To America

    “Ahh, sorry I don’t think maybe you cannot go to The USA today” Said the Japanese lady at the check-in counter, polite as ever. My heart started racing as I realised I hadn’t thought about the fact that on my 3 prior trips to The States I always had a ticket out, and that it would be a problem if I couldn’t prove that we were in fact going to leave before our 90 days were up.

    We were told that we had 25 min. to purchase a new ticket to either Europe or Australia (something that isn’t exactly cheep and something we would normally spent hours or weeks researching prices for) or face loosing our tickets, which were non-refundable. The airport’s wifi was free but not very fast, so we ran to the nearest bench, pulled out both of our laptops and frantically started clicking away.

    At the beginning we were optimistic. We had plenty of time, we could do this! But as time ticked away slowly my spirits fell until I found myself in a state of full on panic attack complete with hyperventilation, hysterical sobbing and phrases like “I DON’T KNOW WHAT TO DO – TELL ME WHICH BUTTONS TO PRESS!!”, “I CAN’T BREATHE!”, “I-CAN’T-SEE!” and the all-time favourite “MY BRAIN HAS STOPPED WORKING!!”

    Ultimately we made it as far as pressing “buy” two minutes before the counter closed. The page started loading – and loading – and loading … and nothing happened. I ran around the hall with the computer, trying to get a batter connection, literally praying to God, but I guess even He is helpless when it comes to crappy wifi. The really ironic thing though, was that just 10 min. prior we had dropped off our rented wifi modem in a mailbox at the entrance hall. The wifi that was so stable I could instagram from the top off a mountain literally lay 50cm out of reach.

    In the end, we didn’t make it. They wouldn’t let us board without a confirmed ticket and we lost 10.000 DKK (around 1400 USD). But worse than that I felt like THE-BIGGEST-IDIOT-IN-THE-ENTIRE-UNIVERSE. Don’t get me wrong the money thing sucked big time but what I was most afraid of was telling other people and having them ridicule me all over again.

    I guess to no ones surprise it turns out that I am actually my own worst critic and all our friends were all very sweet and encouraging when we told them what had happened (how did we get such good friends?)

    But we still had to go to The States for Jonas’s conference so we bought the exact same tickets two days later: KIX to IAD in Washington D.C with a 1,5 h layover in Beijing. Only our first flight was delayed so much that when we touched down in Beijing we had about 25 minutes to get through 3 security checks and queues of 3 billion-trillion Chinese people (okay maybe my counting was a little off but I was in a hurry)

    The China Airlines personnel fortunately knew that we were running late and got us in front of most of the lines. Only problem was that they hadn’t really coordinated the whole thing so every time we got to a new line someone would tell us to “hurry up” or “go over there”, “no, over here” or “in here” pointing us in different directions. At one point I even lost Jonas for moment and started freaking out and running back where I found him having been pointed to another and faster security line. The Japanese politeness we had been so accustomed to was nowhere  to be found and had been replaced with fast-paced Chinese impatience.

    When we finally made it through security and started running towards our gate we were picked up by an airport official on a golf cart to get there faster. We thanked out lucky star until suddenly he pulled out a 20 dollar bill and started gesturing at us to tip him – “very cheap” as he said. Jonas gave him a one dollar bill and explained to him that it was all we had. He then turned to me for more and I think I might have yelled at him a little but it seemed to help and he drove us to the gate without another word.

    The whole thing was so stressful and frantic that when we finally boarded the plain I started crying (again) out of pure exhaustion.


    We are now in The States and I have to admit that it hasn’t been an easy transition for me. The differences in cultures are HUGE in the most literal sense of the way. Coming from a country where I was if not a size L then at least a size M and seeing the size of people, houses and cars here has been a real shock to my system. The bed in our first AirBnB in Washinton was the size of our old room in Osaka and so soft that I actually slept on the floor because it felt more comfortable. (Okay I know this is a serious first world problem but what can I say? Japan has ruined me)

    On top of that we have both been extremely jetlagged and I have felt more homesick than I can remember having felt for years. I don’t mean to sound ungrateful but I also want to be honest and the first couple of days in Washington were tough.

    One thing that city has got going for it though is the cherry blossoms.

    I'm really sorry to say this #Japan but so far #Washington is kicking your ass at #CherryBlossom 🌸

    Et billede slået op af Isa Lykke Hansen (@isalykke) den

    To end things on a happy note we are now in Waxhaw, North Carolina with my old host family and I believe you have to search the Planet pretty well to find a nicer, more hospitable family. They have made us feel right at home and I am so happy to be back and for Jonas to have met my “other family” over here 🙂

    We bought a tent and an Epic Road Trip of The South is starting to take form. We also found a farm up in Maine where we will be doing some farm work for a couple of weeks in June which we are both excited about.

    That’s all for now. Sorry we haven’t been around much lately, but as I mentioned things have been a little hectic and I didn’t really feel like writing because of it…

    /Isa

  • A Night With Friends

    On the 7th of March we flew to Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost islands, to meet up with my Japanese friend Fumi.

    We stayed in Okinawa for a week and despite rain and wind we had a great time and saw many beautiful things. Many words could be written on our time there, but what I wish to share is but a simple meal. A simple, home cooked meal eaten in the company of great people. Because as all who has travelled know, most of the time it is not the place, but the people who make a trip memorable.

    Having a Japanese with us in many ways made everything easier. E.g. Where as we in our search for a hostel have to either drive/walk around from place to place or book online for a higher price, Fumi would of course just call up and hear if anything was available. In theory we could too but 1. many web pages are in Japanese and thus hidden from “our part” of the internet and 2. many Japanese don’t speak English, which is okay when you are face-to-face with them and able to use hand gestures and Google translate but considerably more difficult over the phone.

    Pictured: correct use of rooftop + Jonas ✌️#Okinawa

    Et billede slået op af Isa Lykke Hansen (@isalykke) den

    The honour of finding Okinawa Motobu Guesthouse therefore also befalls Fumi. Without her we would have never met the owner Niku and have been invited to join him and his friends for dinner.

    Left to right: Teruya Jinshi and one of his sons, Fumi, Isa, Jonas, Tamaki Atusi, owner of the restaurant, Asami Kotouge and Morimoto Yuka, two girls from the hostel. In the front, Tamaki Natu, Atusi's daughter, and in the back Niku, the hostel owner.
    Left to right: Teruya Jinshi and one of his sons, Fumi, Isa, Jonas, Tamaki Atusi, owner of the restaurant, Asami Kotouge and Morimoto Yuka, two girls from the hostel. In the front, Tamaki Natu, Atusi’s daughter, and in the back Niku, the hostel owner.

    We drove with Niku to his friends restaurant, where food was already waiting on the table when we arrived.

    The night was filled with laughter as a mix of English, Japanese and Danish was translated back and forth, mostly through Fumi, who speaks Danish almost fluently after a one-year exchange programme 3 years ago. This continues to amaze me.

    At one point Asami looked at me very seriously and asked if I loved Jonas. Slightly blushing I answered that yes of course I did. He then turned to Jonas and gestured for him to get down on his knees and ask me to marry him. I declined laughingly and Fumi had to explain that in Denmark everyone is “bare kærester” (just dating) for a very long time.

    Tempura fried seaweed. Seriously delicious.
    Tempura fried seaweed. Seriously delicious.

    Except for the one above we don’t have many pictures of the food – it was just too good for us to stop eating long enough to take a picture.

    We learned the hard way that Japanese and Danish dinner party manners are a dangerous cocktail when we sat, on the verge of bursting after 7 different dishes of Chinese “mabodofu” (a tufu and chili stew), rice, sausages, tuna, gyoza and tempura and all of a sudden a bowl of Spaghetti Bolognese appeared in front of us (!)

    Turns out that in Japan it is impolite for the host to stop serving food when the guest finishes – and in Denmark it is impolite for guests not to eat up. You guys, It’s The Eternal Circle of Eating!

    Later Atusi turned to Jonas once more. “Please come back next time you are in Okinawa, Mr. Jonas”. And we intend to.

  • Ode to Osaka

    On arrival you stole our hearts
    with your quiet charm and your street smarts
    you’re vintage in an old school way

    Osaka you make our day!

    Owls and cats and dogs and maids
    in Osaka you can make all kinds of trades
    just as we think we have you all figured out
    you throw us a curve ball

    Osaka you simply have it all!

    Ozumo wrestlers big and – bigger
    you have to you a certain vigor
    your streets are bustling but feel like home

    But Osaka, what’s up with all the styrofoam? (That’s really not good for the environment, you know)

    Old and new stand side by side
    we take in you a kind of pride
    we’re gaijins here – we know, we know

    But Osaka, boy do you know how to put on a show!

    Okonomiyaki in our favourite spot
    where the company’s good and the plates are hot
    you keep us coming back for more

    Osaka you always have something good in store!

    On top of it all: a city prairie
    Harukas’s heights can feel kind of scary
    but you look even more spectacular from the 60th floor

    Osaka you’re such an attention wh**e!

    Otoro available right there in your streets
    side by side delicious eats
    ramen, tempura, udon  – oh the joys!

    Osaka you have us spoiled for choice!

    On and on and on it goes –
    the sushi train where tuna, shrimp and salmon flows
    you never served us anything crappy

    Osaka you make our bellies happy!

  • Chaos and Tranquility In Kyoto

    Beautiful, isn’t she?

    The world famous Kinkaku-ji better known as the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto. She is the symbol of cultural Japan, the epitome of nature and beauty united.

    The truth is we have been very fortunate with our timing so far. Arriving in quiet Osaka, driving around in the beautiful and mostly secluded Shikoku mountains. Being here in the off-season has cost us a few cold days but given us so much peace and serenity in return.

    But Kyoto doesn’t have an off-season. And in reality when you get to Kinkaku-ji on a Thursday morning at opening time on a grey and somewhat rainy March day, 3 weeks before the cherry blossom has even begun to consider waking from hibernation it looks more like this:

    And for much of our Kyoto trip I looked more like this:

    Sartre said:
    Sartre said: “Hell is other people”. I think he and I would get along. Which I realize is in itself a contradiction, but you get the point.

    The worst place we went though was the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Our first day in town we rented bicycles and when we got there we found the place was flooded with visitors. At one point we had to stand in line to walk up the mountain. This too was on a weekday morning.

    I am not saying this to appear superior – I realize that like everyone else we are tourists in this place and it’s not like I didn’t know these sites would be popular. However I was surprised at just how many people there were and I must admit that for me at least it ruined some of the experience.

    It took a lot of patience and good timing to get this shot.
    It took a lot of patience and good timing to get this shot.

    That being said many of these people arrive in big tour buses and merely walk to the first gate to take a picture (avec selfie stick of course) and then move on. So by embarking on the one-hour hike to the top we thought we might leave the majority behind. And we were right.

    A side trip into the forest proved that when you leave the beaten, tori-patched path behind you can have it all to yourself.
    A side trip into the forest proved that when you leave the beaten, tori-patched path behind you can have it all to yourself.

    The temple is open 24h as far as I could tell so if you are not afraid of the dark and the Japanese forests – which I think can be kind of eerie with the scattered temple grounds all around – you might escape the masses if you go for a midnight stroll here.

    From Fushimi Inari we moved on to Ginkaku-ji – the Silver Temple and sister temple of Kinkaku-ji. I can’t tell you much about it simply because we didn’t go in. Disheartened by the amount of tourists and sore-butt’ed from the cycling we opted instead for ice cream and a leisurely stroll along the the well-known but less visited Philosopher’s Path. It was beautiful even pre-cherry blossom and probably my favourite memory from Kyoto.

    The next day was our month-a-versary (and yes we still celebrate this after 5.5 years together because cheesy as it may sound it is also a great excuse for eating good food and drinking expensive drinks)

    The weather wasn’t great so much of they day was spent indoors enjoying the fact that our hostel had a very well equipped and clean kitchen and cooking our own food for what was essentially the first time since we left home.

    Everyone told us that Kyoto should be at the top of our list of places to go in Japan. And maybe they are right, but it wasn’t our favourite so far.

    As you might have guessed we didn’t see that many temples when we were in town and we found that our best experiences were had wandering smaller streets and stumbling upon hidden gardens. In Gion we were even fortunate enough to see a real Maiko (Gaisha in training) in a back alley. We stood fixated, spellbound with her beauty and other-worldly (or should I say other-timely) appearance as she click-clacked her way past us on her getas. Afterwards I wasn’t even sure if it really happened or if I had just imagined it all.

    And I think this must be what people mean when they say you should go to Kyoto to experience the real Japan. It certainly can’t be all those touristy temples. But it might be these little pockets of beauty that transcends the normal and takes you back to a time of Shoguns and Samurai. They are out there, hidden, and with a little luck and a closer look you might just happen to stumble upon one of them.

  • A Legendary Oscar Party

    We looked at each other desperately. Was this it? Had we exhausted all our options? I couldn’t believe it – how could this be happening? Could it really be, that we were going to miss the most important event of the year? Could it really be that we were going to miss – The Oscars?!

    Okay okay, I know this might seem like a bit of an overreaction. After all it is just a TV-show. But the thing is; we don’t dress up for Halloween. We don’t go out on Valentines Day. We don’t care much for the New Year. But watching the Oscars, that’s Our Thing (and, I guess, a couple other people’s Thing but that’s beside the point)

    So after having unsuccessfully tried different kinds of streaming services and having made our friends and family promise to try and record it for us, we decided that we should at least have some sort of celebration. Because of the time difference the Oscar wasn’t until Monday morning on the 23rd, so Sunday evening on the 22nd we raided the nearest 100yen store for balloons and DIY garlands, put on our nicest clothes (which wasn’t so nice after all, but you have to give us points for trying) and turned Momonga Village into Shikoko’s very own Hollywood Boulevard!

    Valerie on garland duty
    Valerie on garland duty

    Back to front: Ian, Shun, Babee, Jonas, Isa, Victoria and Valerie
    Back to front: Ian, Shun, Babee, Jonas, Isa, Victoria and Valerie

    We discussed re-watching The Theory of Everything but decided on Birdman instead, since non of us had seen it before. It ended up winning everything, so I guess it was a lucky pick.

    We had such a great night and then … well to be honest we all got piss-drunk on cheap, leftover saké and when I woke up the next morning (in Victoria and Valerie’s room) I was still drunk. And thus begun one of the worst hangovers of my life.

    Blissfully unaware of the hangover that lies ahead...
    Blissfully unaware of the hangover that lies ahead…

    It wasn’t all bad though because 15 min. before the Oscar show started, Jonas managed to sign us up for TV2’s streaming service and we watched THE WHOLE SHOW with only like 3 fall-outs!

    So a tip for all you new travellers out there: make sure to always bring an IT-guy on your trip. It’s sure to make everything just a little bit more … legendary! 😉

  • Japanese Onsen: Cleansing of the Mind and Soul

    There I was. In the middle of the Japanese highland, the clear night sky above me, the soothing sound of clucking water cuddling my ears. There I was. Alone and naked as the day I was born.

    My
    My “private” onsen.

    It was really just bad planing (or no planing) that led us to this heavenly place. Earlier we found a promising AirBnB apartment up in the mountainous Mimasaka prefecture but we never heard back from the guy, so we decided to just drive in that general direction and hope for an answer before nightfall. On the way up we saw a sign towards Yonogo Onsen Village and I remembered reading something about it, so we turned right and found what seemed to be a quiet and mostly empty (Japanese) holiday town.

    First things first. We went straight to the local public bath to relax after the long, exhausting drive. (left-side driving is not something we’re used to, mind you)

    The public bath in Yonogo is less like a bath and more like the most luxurious spa I have ever been to. There are three large indoor onsen and five outdoor stone “tubs”, three of them overflowing into each other like miniature waterfalls.

    The thought of what it would cost me to go to a place like this in Denmark is dizzying even if just for an hour. Here we paid 700 JPY (~39 DKK/6USD) pr. person including a fresh towel and you get to stay as long as you like.

    This is a picture of a picture of some of the outdoor onsen and does IN NO WAY do this place justice.
    This is a picture of a picture of some of the outdoor onsen and does IN NO WAY do this place justice.

    Most of the onsen in Japan (with a few exceptions like the private and super expensive ryokan onsen) are separated between men and women and so everyone is naked. Before you enter you sit on little stools and rinse yourself with buckets of warm water and soap. This ritual – besides obviously preventing dirt in the onsen – is really relaxing and prepares you for what’s lies ahead (spoiler: It is heaven which lies ahead)

    The first time I went, I didn’t know you were supposed to use a wash cloth for washing. On the way out this older woman signalled for me to take one of hers and when I tried to give it back to her (after having thoroughly washed it of course!) she smiled and waved me off with a “present-o!”. People here are so nice.

    Afterwards we went to look for a hotel in the neighbourhood, since the AirBnB guy had written us back that he couldn’t host us. After driving around to a couple of places, tired and not in the mood for more adventure, we settled on a place that was really over budget, but we figured, “what the heck” and settled in. As it turned out that extra money bought us a 6 person bungalow and the above mentioned in- and outdoor onsen which might as well have been private since nobody else was using them. Sometimes it pays off to travel in low-season.

    The indoor part of the onsen. Pictured on the left are the washing stools.
    The indoor part of the onsen. Pictured on the left are the washing stools.

    We stayed in the city for two nights and the next time we went to the public bath I had some of the basics down. I knew to wash myself with a wash cloth as supposed to using my hands and I knew not to put my hair in the water (which I had unknowingly done the first time and only afterwards noticed that nobody else did. Of course no one said anything to me because, as it seems, the Japanese would rather be dead that impolite)

    This morning the outside area was completely empty but for me and one old lady. Her skin looked like it was 3 sizes too big. Her breasts went to her stomach and her butt to her knees. She looked like a small, wrinkled apple with sticks for arms and legs. I loved it. She was beautiful.

    Which brings me to the real reason why I love these onsen so much. In the onsen there is no pretending. No pulling in your stomach or straightening your back to look skinnier, no covering yourself with a towel. Everyone is naked, and nobody cares. Everyone is beautiful in their nakedness and the Japanese know this and have accepted it as a vital part of their culture.

    We nodded in recognition of each other but stayed silent. One time she pointed to the sky and smiled – I take it she was commenting on the sun which had just burst out from the ever-changing sea of clouds. The weather shifts quickly in the mountains. We discovered that the day before when we went to the top of one of the hills overlooking the valley. We kept putting our jackets on and off as the sky presented us with a mix of sunny rays and chilling wind.

    Later in the dressing room I saw one of the older ladies applying a cream to her legs. On the bottle was a picture of a human body so I applied a gentle layer to my legs, arms and back, doing so noticing a slight smell of camphor and peppermint. It reminded me of my grandmother. By closer inspection I discovered it was a muscle-pain reliever. I guess I still have a lot to learn…