Tag: Travel

  • Floating on the Mekong

    Can Tho is the biggest city in the Mekong delta with a bustling 1,2 million inhabitants. It is hot and humid as hell down here which is part of the reason I’m spending the afternoon not sightseeing, but seeking refugee in the shadow on our hotel rooftop terrace, enjoying the occasional breeze.

    Today’s sightseeing is already well over as we started out at 6am, meeting our guide Mr. Tom (I am not at all spelling that right, but that was how it sounded) by the river.
    We found Mr. Tom because he is a friend of Benoit, who is a friend of the parents of the two girls I used to babysit when I was younger – I love how stuff like this happens, when you travel.

    Anyways, as you might know, The Mekong delta in southern Vietnam is especially known for it’s colourful floating markets, the biggest one being Cai Rang 6 km SW along the river from Can Tho – so that’s what we went out to see.

    Mr. Tom and I - bright and early
    Mr. Tom and I – bright and early

    The boat vendors have a clever way of advertising - they simply hang their selection on a tall stick, so you can see from afar what they are selling
    The boat vendors have a clever way of advertising – they simply hang their selection on a tall stick, so you can see from afar what they are selling
    The
    The “eye boats” are everywhere to be seen in southern Vietnam
    Breakfast Pho on the boat
    Breakfast Pho on the boat

    We made one stop at a local noodle factory, where we got to see the whole process of noodlemaking, from the crushing of the rice to the finished 5 kg packages sold on the floating market. The round rice “pancakes” on the picture below are steemed for 1-2 min. then left in the sun to dry for 3 hours. After that they are sliced into perfect, long noodles on the cutting machine

    Apart from being a really nice and funny guy, who always made us smile, Mr. Tom also only spoke maybe 3-4 English phrases. He had, however, a special talent. When we met him on the boat I was greeted with a large “flower bouquet” made entirely out of “water coco” leaves. 

    He won my heart right there and then but nonetheless continued to make every imaginable artwork out of these leaves, all while steering the boat and telling us about the landscape. The fact that he consequently referred to me as “Madam” didn’t hurt either. 

    Flower bouquet- and basket, large grasshopper mobile, birds, bracelets, necklaces and a ring for
    Flower bouquet- and basket, large grasshopper mobile, birds, bracelets, necklaces and a ring for “the Madame”

    Seriously, how could you not love this guy?

  • A food tour of massive proportions

    A whole, black chicken in a can, a duckling cooked in its own egg or how about deep-fried sea worm cakes. Sounds delicious? Well, I can now with confidence say that it was!

    Tu and Matt, co-writes of the blog Stickyrice, host 3- or 6 hour food tours of Hanoi. We chose the latter and Saturday we had the great pleasure of following Tu around for 6 hours as we made our way through Hanoi’s hidden back alleys in search of some of the best street food the city has to offer.

    Tu picked us up at our hotel lobby at 9am and immediately asked if there was anything we were allergic too, what we liked to drink and if we were “adventurous”. We said that we were pretty much up for anything and he immediately customized the tour to our needs.

    We started out with some fresh mushroom and pork-filled spring rolls which was simply one of the tastiest dishes I have ever had. Sprinkled with deep-fried scallops and dipped in a simple mix of salt, freshly squeezed kumquat juice and pieces of fresh, hellishly strong chilies the result was amazing!

    I had read an article beforehand, written by a full-grown American foodie, who had had to quit before the tour ended, so as much as I wanted to finish the whole plate in 5 min I kept some restraint, for the sake of lasting all six hours (which I totally did btw!)

    I don’t have the time nor the memory to write about all the dishes we tried, but here are some pictures to give you an idea of how diverse and DELICIOUS street food in Hanoi can be:

    chicken in can with herbs
    chicken in can with herbs

    barbecue-noodle-soup - the red colour is from a crab-paste
    barbecue-noodle-soup – the red colour is from a crab-paste
    Vietnamese coffee - even I could drink it!
    Vietnamese coffee – even I could drink it!

    At noon we picked up American Kyle who was joining us for the second part of the tour. Kyle works in Malaysia and was vacationing in Hanoi for the weekend. He turned out to be a really cool guy and the three of us ended up spending the evening together eating and drinking at some places uptown that Tu recommended.

    chicken-noodle-soup
    chicken-noodle-soup
    passion fruit juice
    passion fruit juice
    freshly made herb omelet
    freshly made herb omelet

    deep-fried sea worm cake (before I knew what it was)
    deep-fried sea worm cake (before I knew what it was)
    Tu's favourite: chicken-peanut-noodle (pho tio)
    Tu’s favourite: chicken-peanut-noodle (pho tio)
    the infamous duckling
    the infamous duckling

    Tu being a resident in Hanoi for the last 10+ years knows the city like his own back pocket, and when we asked him how he found all these hidden treasures he replied with a smile: “well, it’s my job”.

    And what a great job he did. Tu was funny, kind and full of good stories. Most of them about food of course, but he also seemed to know all the owners of the stalls, he told us about the culture and taught us how to cross the street without dying (“If you feel unsafe just follow an old lady, they will never run over an old lady”) Kind of a reverse-scout-move I suppose. 

    After the tour he mailed us a list with links to some of the places we had visited as well as some places to try out later on our tour.

    As you might have sensed I strongly recommend anyone visiting Hanoi to go on one of these tours and – if you have the time and funds – definitely opt for the 6-hour tour! I could have easily kept on going for the rest of the day with more stories, more quirky, hidden coffee places and more mouth-watering street food. In 6 hours we didn’t even get to try a fraction of what Hanoi has to offer.

    So cheers to you Tu! If you’re ever in Denmark, make sure to drop by for some frikadeller and a rudbrødsmad 🙂

  • Getting kicked in the butt by Hanoi

    Hanoi is a crazy place. It’s been a long time since I’ve feared for my life this many times in one day. I feel like I placed myself at the end of my comfort zone and Hanoi just kind of came up on me and kicked me hard in the butt.

    I’ll be honest and say, that I’m not that fond of the city – yet. But I’m also fully aware that it has more to do with me feeling out of control and overwhelmed by the complete change of culture, food and sound level. People have been helpful and nice, but the guidebooks all say to “be careful or be scammed”.

    At the same time I feel really bad for going around pouting when I should be happy that I’m finally here. I guess it just takes some getting used to.

    In a somewhat failed attempt to calm myself down I’ve been reciting the lyrics from this Frau Frau song from the Garden State soundtrack to myself:

    So let go

    so let go

    jump in

    oh well what you waiting for?

    it’s all-right ‘

    cause there’s beauty in the breakdown 

    I know there’s beauty to be found in this chaos, but I seriously need to be less jet-lagged to see it.

    As you can see from the pictures it wasn’t all bad. We had our first authentic bowl of street-pho and went to visit the temple of literature.

    Tomorrow we are going on a 6 hour food tour with the guys from Stickyrice and I’m really looking forward to that.

    We have decided to head south on Sunday morning. We really wanted to see Sapa and travel around Hanoi and the north for a while but the weather hasn’t been good up here and it looks like it’s getting worse. So instead we’ll get to see some of central Vietnam 🙂

  • The power of yes-saying (or the story of how I ended up in a meltwater river in California)

    You know how sometimes the most boring pictures contain the best stories? This is one of those pictures.

    Pretty boring right? But albeit not being either well-lit nor well-framed this picture contains one of my all-time favourite travel memories:

     

    Saying yes to life can get you into the strangest situations. Generally I’m not very good at saying yes, I really have to make an effort to not just blurt out my usual “no” when I don’t feel 100% in control.

    I first became aware of this about a year ago during my education at YRA. We were given an assignment to say yes 25 times in a week, especially to the things we would normally say no to (provided it didn’t cross our ethical boundaries) Also we couldn’t tell anyone about this or we would have to do it over again. This was, of course, to get us out of our comfort zones, and boy did it get me out of mine!

    I discovered that I really liked the assignment and as it coincided with our road trip to California I quickly decided to prolong it to the whole month. Luckily Jonas has this habit of asking me random questions all the time (I suppose it’s because he just expects to get a no), so when I started to notice this I had every opportunity to ace the assignment.

    Most of the yes-es let to harmless things such as an otherwise passed viewpoint or an ice cream break, but one yes led to a rather more dramatic event.

    We were headed north along the river through Sequoia National Forest (one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen btw.) when we passed a small inn. The inn consisted of a few huts and behind it an idyllic looking white bridge crossed the river. I had already passed by it when Jonas let out one of his usual: “wanna go across the bridge?”

    I actually said no at first, but then I remembered my assignment, turned around the car and stopped at the small parking lot. We found the lady who owned the place and asked if it was okay for us to cross the bridge. She said yes and off we were.

    The water was passing slowly under the bridge, the air still had a bit of its February chill, but the sun was shining and all in all it was a beautiful day.

    We decided to play a game of Poohsticks and as I leaned down to pick up a suitable stick i noticed a movement out of the corner of my right eye. In the long second that followed I realized that I had just dropped our only car key in a melt water river while hearing the taunting ghost of 3-weeks-past-me saying that “no, of course we don’t need insurance for the car key, that’s just silly.”

    Needles to say, I freaked out. I ran over to the railing and looked down in wild search of the key. And there, 3 meters down, it peered up at us from a convenient location between some rocks at the bottom of the river. I started crying in despair “I have to go get it, I was the one who dropped it, it will flow away if we don’t get it, we have to get it NOW!”

    Jonas tried to calm me down, saying that the water was freezing, and the key wasn’t going anywhere, but I was beyond reach and already headed for the river side.

    I started walking into the water wearing all my clothes while Jonas watched me from above and guided me towards the key.

    It went fine at first. Yes, the water was cold, but the current wasn’t too strong and it only went up to my thighs. I continued and gasped as the water reached my stomach – it really was freezing! – but now I was only two meters from where the key was supposed to be. One meter further however and the water rose to my neck – I would have to dive to get it.

    Only problem is that I’m blind as a bat and I was afraid I would loose my glasses if I stuck my head in with them. The current was stronger on this side of the river and all of a sudden it didn’t seem so idyllic anymore.

    So I went back in to take them off, meanwhile Jonas went to find the lady that owned the place to see if she had anything that could help us. They came back with some sticks and fishing poles, but I knew it wouldn’t work – as soon as I got in, I wouldn’t be able to see anything for the gravel that whirled up in the water every time I took a step.

    I asked the lady if she had any goggles I could borrow. She went looking and I went back into the water with the stick (I didn’t dare waiting out of fear that the key would disappear or stop working – (it was an automatic key))

    Having been out of the water for a couple of minutes the water seemed even colder the second time. Shortly after I started to feel numb, which obviously felt better but was also a dangerous sign that my body was starting to cool down. After a few failed attempts with the stick, which only led more gravel to whirl around and block my view, I went in again.

    This time I got lucky. The lady had found an old pair of goggles in my favourite colour (I don’t know why I remember this random fact, but it meant a lot to me at that moment) and I put them on while preparing myself to get into the icy water once more.

    As I went in for the third time I was shacking, unable to control my voice as I yelled up to Jonas on the bridge: “c-c-can you still see it?!” “where?” “I c-c-c-can’t see anything”. I went as close as I could without getting my head under and stood still waiting for the dirt to settle so I had a clear view. I was shacking uncontrollably by now.

    “This is your last chance” Jonas yelled down from the bridge, “after this you are getting out of that water!”

    I took a deep breath, dived and flapped my arms and legs to resist getting carried away by the current. All that was going through my head was the words “last chance, last chance, last chance”. I reached out for a shapeless black thing (I still wasn’t wearing my glasses) and finally closed my hand around the key.

    My hand was the first thing entering the surface in a triumphant gesture followed by my head letting out a loud “YES!” as I kept thrusting my hand into the air. “yes!, yes!, yes!” I repeated all the way back to the riverside.

    By some miracle the key still worked and after a bath, a and hot cup of tea and a hair-dryer, all kindly offered to me by the innkeeper-lady, we were off again. We went back the same way we came as we found out from the innkeeper that the pass was closed further north due to snow.

    Some might say that this was all a series of very unfortunate events, and that this should in no way encourage you to say yes to things. But as I look back I can’t help feeling like the luckiest person alive. So much could have gone wrong; the key could have fallen a little to the left, the the lady could have not had any goggles, the key could have stopped working or we could have just driven by continuing for another hour only to find out we had to go back the same way. None of these things happened however and in addition I got a good story to take home with me.

    I guess all I’m saying is, if you ever drive by Mc Nally’s, do drop in and do say hi from that crazy girl that dropped her only key in the river.

    What is the craziest place a “yes” has ever taken you?

    Also I wanted to let you know that we are at the airport right now ready to head out on our next big adventure!  This time Vietnam is up for exploring, as I’ll backpack my way through the country for 5 weeks. Jonas will be with for 3 out of those weeks, but unfortunately he had to get back to work, so the last two weeks I’m on my own – witch is both very exciting and very terrifying, but more on that later. 

    I’ll try to update the blog on the go – but you know we’ll see how it goes 😉

    Until then!

  • Lykken er … The Ultimate Packing List

    I don’t exactly love packing (at all) But I do care about it (a lot) Whenever I go traveling I spend loads of time thinking about what to pack, what to leave and what to buy once I get there. Vietnam is no different. And also – surprise – I have a system for this.

    Over the cause of many past trips I have developed the Ultimate Packing List. It’s rather genius if I do say so myself (though I’m not sure it’s very original)

    The idea is that it’s much easier to cross the things you don’t need off a list than it is to remember everything each time you go traveling. So what I’ve done is that I’ve made a list and every time I need to pack for a trip I just rename the list and delete all the things I don’t need – and also, if I’m bringing something I haven’t before, I add it to the original.

    This way I now have a list with almost everything you could need for a trip, and it’s yours to steal away right here (you’re welcome)

    Some side notes:

    • I’m not a skier, so if your vacation is taking you to colder places than Denmark, it might need some additions. All the basics are there though.
    • Also as you will soon discover from the content; I am a girl, and therefor girly things occur on the list. Feel free to replace then with manly things such as … hammers and scotch. (What do I know?)
    • The essential thing to notice here is that you have to delete stuff from the list. Otherwise you’ll have a hard time fitting it into a suitcase – let alone a backpack.
      These are ALL the things I’ve brought for ALL of my past trips. Sometimes you need make-up and high heels – Headed to Costa Rica? Maybe replace it with the mosquito net.

    Happy packing and see you out there!