Just wanted to say a quick thank you and share some pictures from our going-away party this weekend. You all made us feel extremely loved, coming from far and near like you did, bringing presents and surprise guests. We feel so grateful to have you all as our friends and you will all be greatly missed.
With love
Jonas and Isa
Do you know that feeling? That feeling of extreme exitement. That feeling where your mind goes numb and your chest swallows up to the point where you almost hyperventilate. Where you’re pretty sure your heart might burst out of your ears and all you can think is: “I have got to do this”. That feeling that tells you everything is just right.
It’s that moment right before your ego kicks in. But then, when it does, it hits you hard. For me it usually goes something along the lines of:
“But what if…?” “That sounds dangerous” “You better not” “This is unsafe” “You can’t do that” “You’re not qualified” “you’re not ready” “This is going too fast” “Hold on, wait a minute – STOOOP!”
Sound familiar?
I don’t like not doing something out of fear. And when it comes to egos I have found that besides telling you what you are really afraid of doing they are also a very good indicator of what you should be doing. In my experience it goes like this: The louder my ego the higher the gain. So whenever I feel my ego racing into overdrive I start to wonder what wonderful chance I’m about to miss out on. After all it is just fear and fear should be met head on, am I right?
So, where does Africa fit into all of this?
About a month ago I got an email from Danish ICYE, an organization I have been volunteering at for 4 years since I travelled with them to Costa Rica in 2010.
ICYE (apart from being the least pronounceable name in history) stands for International Cultural Youth Exchange and was originally a Christian organization founded just after WWII with the purpose of regaining trust between Germany and the US. The idea was to let young Germans study abroad for one year in America hereby establishing new friendships and respect between the two cultures. ICYE has since developed to a multinational organization with more than 40 countries involved and hundreds of volunteers going abroad every year.
Anyways back to the email. It read that 9 EVS Overseas projects were available with short notice (ei. The application had to be sent within 2 weeks) EVS is the European Voluntary Service and basically they will pay for EVERYTHING if you get elected for one of their projects. One of said projects were in Ecuador working with disabled children teaching them music and dance. And that’s when I started getting That Feeling. And That Fear. And I reasoned with myself that at least I should try and write an application. There was no guarantee that I would get in (after all, only 3 applicants from 9 countries would be chosen and sent to Berlin to be elected for the 9 projects) but at least I would know that I tried.
“It’s yours if you want it”
The project coordinator from ICYE on the phone. Not the project in Ecuador – someone else had been more qualified for that – but the one in Africa. More specifically the Kenya Deaf Agenda Self-Help Group (KDA), a non-profit learning center for children with special needs located in Nairobi-Kenya. The children at the center have disabilities related to hearing, autism and cerebral palsy and are orphaned or the parents are from very disadvantaged backgrounds.
“It’s yours if you want it”, and I did want it. The only reason not to do this would be fear. Right? Except it wasn’t.
We tried everything to work this into our plans, we even almost found an apartment in Nairobi. But the project was free for one person – not for two and it just didn’t make financial sense to be bound to a project for 7 months where we would have to pay to live together. What I first saw as a way for us to prolong the trip ended up being a way to shorten it (in the sense that we would see less and still spend money on rent)
In the end it wasn’t just right. And, come to think of it, nothing really is, is it? There is always an upside and a downside to everything and I feel really fortunate that I got to choose between two such exciting options to begin with. But I digress and I realize this makes for a very poor blog post, especially since I initially planned the ending to be something like “We’re going to Kenya. How wonderfully random this life can be.” And now that just feels really stupid, since as it turns out, we are not.
But to select one thing is to deselect another. And by deselecting Kenya we selected the freedom and spontaneity that comes with not knowing. My initial hold-back for turning it down was that I didn’t want to say no out of fear. And I haven’t. I said no out of want for something else. And that I’m okay with.
We’ve been getting this question a lot lately. And I realize it is a completely fair question to ask – even though we are certainly not the first nor the last people to do this, it is still rather unusual to sell all your stuff and go into the World without as much as a hint of a plan.
The thing is, though, that I often can’t seem to find an answer that would justify this craziness to them. And even if I do they’ll follow it up with an “oh … so what are you going to do afterwards?”
Seriously, we haven’t even left yet. How would I know? Nobody knows what will happen ten minutes from now (no, you don’t) let alone a year.
I understand these are questions of love. People ask because they care and of course I have thought about this a lot too. And so, I have decided that my answer is this:
I don’t know yet. But I imagine we’re going to laugh and smile and fight and cry (out of stress and out of relief because not being able to communicate with anything but your hands and animal sounds (don’t ask) will do that to you). We are going to eat and get lost and watch movies in quirky movie theaters. Hopefully we’ll do yoga and read and write and take lots and lots of picture and I’ll draw and Jonas will become even more of a PowerShell ninja (nerd alert if you click on that link!).
We will see, hear, smell, taste and feel new things, broaden our horizons so to speak, and hopefully we’ll learn a thing or two along the way as well; About ourselves, about other people and cultures, about food and languages and foreign customs. And, I just realized, we are going to make complete fools of ourselves… But most of all?:
We’re going to live.
I hate to brake it to you guys, but you kinda only get this one chance to do it. I know this venture of ours is not everyone’s idea of a good time and at the risk of sounding hippy-dippy – that’s okay, you just go and do whatever makes you happy then. But for Christ’s sake do it. Do that thing that you’ve always dreamt of doing. Do it just for the sake of doing it. What better reason is there, really?
2014 has been kind of weird year for me.
Last winter (at the end of 2013/beginning of 2014) I was really down. I was stressed out over how out-of-control I felt in my life. I was in a rot – unable to see a way out, I felt stuck in a life I didn’t want and didn’t feel I could change. But I had also just started my Master coach program and slowly things started to shift.
Let me assure you – becoming a Master coach is no easy task, in fact it is the single hardest thing I have done in my life. But also the most rewarding.
As winter turned into spring, I slowly began to see that I alone was the one keeping me from what I wanted. This sounds like such a cliche, and it probably is, but as is with most cliches they have a truth in them. I realized that all these ideas I had about what I should be doing, about right and wrong – well, they weren’t really very useful. They certainly didn’t make me feel better and they kept away from the life that was happening right now.
I wouldn’t say I regained control of my life – it was more like the other way around. I started to let go. This made room for some new opportunities. It started with a trip to Vietnam, but as you probably know by now, it ended up with something I could have only dreamed of one year ago (and often did, by the way)
One thing I would like to state very clearly, and something that might have been The Lesson for me this year, is that I could not have and did not accomplish any of the things I have this year alone. I have been overwhelmed with the love and kindness from friends and family I and we have been shown this year. It might sound stupid but just one year ago I didn’t know that 1. I can not do everything by myself and 2. What I do alone will never be half as good as what I do with others.
So thank you to everyone who has been kind, helpful, thoughtful, pushy, annoyingly right, understanding and everything in between. It made a difference. Jonas of course is the person who deserves most of the credit. I have not been an easy girlfriend to have this year, but I believe I have become a better one.
I can’t even begin to imagine what 2015 will be like for us, but I am pretty sure it will be a year to remember.
Happy New year!
Our trip is slowly creeping up on us and I can’t believe there’s little more than 2 months till we fly out for Osaka. It’s surreal really, and as much as we are excited we are also not really comprehending what’s ahead of us. And how could we really? We are going away for an undecided amount of time (when people ask us, how long we are going away for the answer is usually anywhere between 8months or a year – or until we don’t have more money. Or till we tire of it – which I doubt is going to happen, but who knows?…) And we have no real plans yet except for a conference in North Carolina at the end of April.
I recently emailed a friend of mine who’s in Greenland and we discussed the importance of preparation. She made the point that it is a very important part of a trip, and I of course agree with this completely. But, as I explained to her, I also feel like I have prepared for this trip for the last ten years. I have read every possible opinion on what to pack, what to see and what to do (and what absolutely not to pack, see and do) And I sometimes feel like all of these opinions can get in the way of my own gut feeling. I think that is also part of the reason why I didn’t enjoy Vietnam as much as I could have.
That being said, Japan is a completely new territory and even if I wanted to I couldn’t not do some prior research. (This of course includes eating as much sushi as possible to get used to the taste)
I have made this list of useful and interesting Japan reading/watching/listening and I plan to update it up until we leave.
I’m more of a reader than a listener, but Jonas is really into podcasts and have found a few about Japan:
So, about 9 months ago I wrote a post on how I sometimes felt like selling all my junk, stuffing the rest into a backpack and take off. In the mean time I’ve been in Vietnam for 5 weeks, which was certainly an adventure, but to be honest left me in a state of unfulfillment. A big part of that was my own unrealistic expectations – to the country and to myself.
Before we went I’d expected beautiful scenery, authentic and delicious street food and most of all I’d expected myself to trout along with a joyous, spontaneous attitude and a constant smile on my face. That’s not quite what happened.
I found Vietnam to be very rough and dirty and I was completely overwhelmed by the constant noise and turmoil. I felt like I was constantly being ripped of (which I probably was) and found it hard to get “off the beaten track” and see something other that the designated tourist route. Also I got sick – a lot…
But worst of all, I didn’t enjoy myself. I found myself acting suspicious rather than being open and spontaneous and I was unable to let go and just go with the flow. I couldn’t help it and I constantly blamed myself for this, which obviously didn’t make it any better. Goddammit I knew that it was all a matter of perspective … and yet I couldn’t seem to find the right one.
I realized (with a little help) along the way that I was so afraid of being “just a stupid tourist” that I ended up being even more of one. I was so attached to that self image of me being in control and I was unwilling to accept the fact that I was really inexperienced when it came to travel in Asia and so of course I would make “mistakes” – and that was okay.
As I said to someone recently “I am so afraid of ending up in that exact same situation again – that I’m already in it”
My point is that there is nothing wrong with Vietnam. And there is nothing wrong with me. But my ego got in the way.
When I left I was so afraid that I would never feel like traveling again. And that really scared me because it had been all I’d thought about for as long as I could remember.
That feeling stayed with me for about … two weeks. Then I was ready to jet off again. The old urge to get rid of all my stuff and set of for an unknown adventure once more began to surface and I felt like doing it “right” this time.
Fast forward about 1,5 month to me exclaiming “OH MY GOD WHAT HAVE WE DONE?!” as me and Jonas simultaneously hit send on the email that terminated the lease to our apartment. We didn’t really have a plan as much as an idea that we wanted to leave in the beginning of 2015 and probably stay on the road for a year, which wouldn’t be possible did we continue to pay 6500+ DKK in rent every month. So we hit send – the rest would have to work itself out.
And boy did it. I’m typing this from our new home – a spare room that two of Jonas’s friends have agreed to lend us for 2,5 months until December. The bathroom is 4 times the size of our old one and they have a cinema in the basement. That’s right – a friggin’ cinema! But the best part is that they are such great and hospitable people. Right from the start they have gone out of their way to make us feel at home and we are both beyond grateful for this.
I can’t help but smile when I think about what my mother-in-law said to us just a few days ago: “When you show the universe you are ready to let go it will bring you something new”.
Well, take off is February 10th – and I’m SO ready to be a Future World Traveller!
Finding Nemo …
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Now I’ back in Saigon where I’ll spent my last few days until I fly home on Wednesday.
And in case any of you were wondering I didn’t abseil down the waterfall as much as slipping and falling, head first, legs entangled in my safety rope, unable to move or get up on my feet, until finally giving up and just sliding down the waterfall, getting back on my feet and, finally, letting go and jumping the last five meters into the river
So … my last post was neither very cheerful nor very pictureful. I promise to change that, but the reason I wrote the post, was also to let you know that: Hey, that’s how I feel sometimes.
I don’t find travelling to be easy, that’s not why I’m doing this. I would love to be more carefree, embrace change and just go with the flow – and that’s why I’m doing this. My theory is that if I get myself into shit 100 times, the 100th time will be much less scary than the first time.
As I also mentioned last time, I recently met a Swedish couple, and it’s very interesting to see the differences in our way of travelling.
They never book ahead. Just the thought of arriving in a new city without a pre-booked hotel gives me the creeps.
They use the internet maybe once every 3rd day. I like to know where I am on google maps at all times, and I use my 3G sim-card a lot.
They gladly give out their passport to the hotel, because they feel it is more safe than having it with them. Mine is kept, along with my other valuables, in a belt bag which I have with me at all times.
God I sound so uptight when I’m writing this – and I am, I will gladly admit to that.
But you know what, I am also brave as fuck. Because if you are not afraid, then you are not brave. That is the important difference between being fearless and being brave. I am afraid several times a day, but I keep on going. I challenge myself again and again, in the hope that I will one day be able to go with the flow, and trust that everything is gonna be all-right.
And for that I applaud myself (yes I do! despite being Danish and all)
Anyway this was not at all what this post was supposed to be about. I promised you food and pictures, so food and pictures you shall get. Chronologically backwards these are some of the more interesting meals I have had the past week or so:
This food tour was one of the things I had most been looking forward to when coming to Vietnam. Canadian born Jodi Ettenberg is a former lawyer who quit her job to go on a 1 year round-the-world-trip. That was 6 years ago, and she hasn’t stopped travelling. She runs the food/travel blog LegalNomades which I would highly recommend you check out – she is a truly inspiring lady.
Lucky for me she is situated at Saigon at the moment where she hosts food tours for her readers. We ended up being just a small group of four – me, her and her American friend Mike along with his Vietnamese girlfriend Anh.
We started out with Banh da xuc hen. A dish from Hue in central Vietnam. The dish consisted of baby clams stir-fried with onions, lemongrass, chilli, ginger and white pepper, with rau ram (Vietnamese coriander) – and it was delish! (though rather spicy)
Next up was Mi quang – turmeric noodles from central Vietnam’s Quang Nam province. It was served with the same rice”bread” as above, which was broken onto little pieces and added to the soup along with the usual abundance of fresh herbs.
Everyone who knows me, know that I am a sucker for icecream .. and yoghurt. So the next little “cleanser” was probably my favourite part of the tour. Yaourt – frozen yoghurt from Dalat, eaten in the park, with aerobic-dancing ladies in the background. Perfection.
(I tried finding it up here in Da Lat, where I am now, but nobody understands me, when I say I want the frozen one…)
The next dish was Goi du du bo – Unripened papaya salad with beef jerky, rice cracker and peanuts with rau ram. I don’t have a picture of this as we literally sat on the side walk in a dark park and ate it. Even though the whole scene screamed food poisoning (at one point a rat came running at us full speed) it was surprisingly delicious.
The last dish was a dessert called Che chuoi – lady finger banana and yam in coconut milk with tapioca balls. It was good, but I must admit that I am not quite used to the whole concept of Vietnamese desserts yet. They are so … different.
The most important part though was the company and you couldn’t have asked for a better crowd. The whole thing felt more like an evening out with friends than an organized food tour, which I loved.
Jonas’ last night was also celebrated with a nice, yet not-so-Vietnamese meal. It was at the rooftop restaurant 27 Grill on the 27th floor of Saigon AB tower. The food was great and the view even more so.
The next day while waiting one the taxi we went to Sozo – a nice little coffee place in the backpacker area, that happens to make a killer passion fruit cheesecake and some mouthwatering Oreo truffles. But it gets better:
Sozo is a café established for the purpose of helping disadvantaged Vietnamese break the cycle of debt, find employment and start a new life. Through your patronage you help the marginalized support themselves, as all profits are used for training, education and facilitation of more jobs for willing workers. (link)
So … you are basically helping people by eating delicious desserts. I’ll be back.
In Can Tho we had Nem Nuong (grilled barbecue pork, noodles, pineapple, green banana and herbs in rice paper), which was freakishly delicious.
On our Saigon sightseeing we had our most beautiful meal at “Vegetarian … hum” right next to the War remnants museum.
And in case you were wondering what my worst food experience has been so far, here is a little slide show to give you an idea:
It’s called “pearl milk”, and I’m never going near it again.
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That’s all for now, tomorrow I’m going abseiling down a waterfall … so much for being brave.
So … it’s just me now. Actually it has been only me for two whole days, and I’m not dead yet – even though I came close last night.
Yesterday morning I woke up with yet another case of the not-so-yummi-tummy (sorry guys, but this shit happens when you travel) I have had this problem on-off since we got here, and I am getting pretty sick of it to be honest.
Yesterday morning was particularly bad timing though, since I was going on my long-expected-and-very-much-looked-forward-to-(and-already-paid-for) food tour with Jodi from LegalNomades. (If you don’t know this girl, check her out, she is the awesomest) Also, the day after (which is to say today) I had an 8 hour bus ride to Da Lat – don’t think that one needs further explanation.
So I ate a Ciproflexocain (a mild antibiotic) and treated myself to a morning in bed equipped with comfort food, plenty of water and a kindl, hoping it would get better come afternoon
It did, luckily, and I ended up having a wonderful time, of which I shall blog some later on.
BUT as it turns out Jodi, having travelled the world for 6 years, knew a thing or two about “Cipro” (that’s what the cool kids call it) Apparently you have to keep taking it even after your symptoms disappear or you could risk immunizing the bacteria. I had actually wondered about this, since that is normally the case with antibiotics, but our doctor hadn’t mentioned anything about it back home.
I didn’t really know if I should take a second one or not, but ended up doing so, just to be sure. Better safe than sorry, I thought. Well I got really sorry.
I woke up at 1.30am with severe stomach cramps. I really thought I would throw up or pass out on the bathroom floor as I felt all blood leave my face. I tried to go back to the dormitory to get some water in the fridge but I just ended up lying down in the middle of the room breathing hard as I pictured myself spending the rest of my holiday in a Vietnamese hospital. I finally got up and decided to wake one of the guys I had spoken to earlier, but luckily at that moment Lee, one of the owners, walked into the room.
He took me outside and as soon as I told him about the pill, he asked if I had eaten anything. I told him yes, two hours before I took the pill and felt kind of foolish as he smiled at my stupidity and quickly found some bread and water for me to eat.
After that I felt much better and was able to get a few more hours of sleep before the bus ride (which went fine by the way)
I read afterwards that stomach cramps is one of the rearer side effects of taking Cipro, so I won’t be doing that again unless I really, really have to!
——
For the next couple of days I’ll be in Da Lat, hanging out with a Swedish couple I met on the bus. If the weather (which is colder and rainier up here) permits, we will be doing some sightseeing and some mountain hiking before heading out to Na Trang for some beach bum’in.
Can Tho is the biggest city in the Mekong delta with a bustling 1,2 million inhabitants. It is hot and humid as hell down here which is part of the reason I’m spending the afternoon not sightseeing, but seeking refugee in the shadow on our hotel rooftop terrace, enjoying the occasional breeze.
Today’s sightseeing is already well over as we started out at 6am, meeting our guide Mr. Tom (I am not at all spelling that right, but that was how it sounded) by the river.
We found Mr. Tom because he is a friend of Benoit, who is a friend of the parents of the two girls I used to babysit when I was younger – I love how stuff like this happens, when you travel.
Anyways, as you might know, The Mekong delta in southern Vietnam is especially known for it’s colourful floating markets, the biggest one being Cai Rang 6 km SW along the river from Can Tho – so that’s what we went out to see.
We made one stop at a local noodle factory, where we got to see the whole process of noodlemaking, from the crushing of the rice to the finished 5 kg packages sold on the floating market. The round rice “pancakes” on the picture below are steemed for 1-2 min. then left in the sun to dry for 3 hours. After that they are sliced into perfect, long noodles on the cutting machine
Apart from being a really nice and funny guy, who always made us smile, Mr. Tom also only spoke maybe 3-4 English phrases. He had, however, a special talent. When we met him on the boat I was greeted with a large “flower bouquet” made entirely out of “water coco” leaves.
He won my heart right there and then but nonetheless continued to make every imaginable artwork out of these leaves, all while steering the boat and telling us about the landscape. The fact that he consequently referred to me as “Madam” didn’t hurt either.
Seriously, how could you not love this guy?
